All 3D Garment Design and Development Processes for 3D Weaving

Many fit issues originate from the complex use of 1D measurements to make 2D shapes cut into 2D material then bent and folded into a shape placed on a 3D object, the human body. As Cottle, Ulrich, and Simmons (2014) discussed, this could be termed “the 3D-to-1D-to-2D-to-3D method of apparel fit”. It is in the 2D pattern where the 3D body shape is flattened to the use of measurements, which do not reflect much of the subjective characteristics of the body, and leads to fit dissatisfaction as well as a desire for customization from the customers. Fit dissatisfaction can also lead to a significant percentage of garment returns which is wasteful and waste contributes to the planet-wide crisis of climate change. Design to garment processes and workflows have consistently been burdened by this 2D to 3D transition in the development and production processes. What if the whole process, from design to garment, was entirely 3D? In the present study, we propose a conceptual approach and the initial steps taken toward introducing a garment process that would produce a custom zero fallout garment by keeping the whole apparel process from design to production in 3D. A body scan and be used to render a 3D garment piece to be woven in a garment tubular loom. Through the use of quad-remashing in Rhino 3D a 3D grid can be applied to the garment shape that can then be translated into a black and white "card image" that instructs the tubular loom of the desired woven textile construction.