18228 A novel acetyl dipeptide demonstrates pleiotropic gene expression, optimized bioavailability, and perceived anti-aging benefits

Peptides, composed of amino acids, are developed for topical skin benefits due to their similarity to and effect on the skin’s structural components, such as collagen, elastin, and decorin. A novel acetyl dipeptide (ADP) with known anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and compromised skin benefits, was further evaluated. RNA was isolated in vitro from full-thickness skin equivalents treated twice for 48 hours with ADP in different formulations. Whole-transcriptome analysis identified differentially expressed genes. Skin penetration studies of ADP were conducted in cadaver skin mounted on Franz diffusion cells over 48 hours. An in vivo assessment using an ADP facial cream twice daily, in women 40-65 years, included self-assessment for consumer perceived skin benefits. Transcriptome analysis revealed ADP differentially modulated 4284 genes including favorable up-regulations to: skin development, peptide cross-linking, and regulation of water loss compared with untreated (P < .05). ADP positively affected individual genes (P < .05) including HAS3, AQP5, FLG, LIPN, GLUD1, VEGF, and CDKN2A, linked to hydration, barrier function, epidermal metabolism, and senescence. Skin penetration studies show ADP delivery is increased with glycolic acid (P < .01, dose-dependently) and directionally increased in a niosomal carrier. In vivo self-graded dryness showed significant improvement compared with baseline (P < .05). Self-assessment of perceived benefits to anti-aging included improvement in elasticity/firmness (96%), fine lines (98%), overall signs of aging (100%), skin looks younger (100%). Overall, the novel acetyl dipeptide exhibited pleiotropic mechanisms of action with an optimized means for skin bioavailabilty and supporting consumer perceived benefits as a topical skin matrix and barrier building anti-aging agent.