Rosa chinensis in vitro cell cultures: a phytocomplex rich of medium molecular weight polysaccharides with hydrating properties

In-vitro cell cultures of selected Rosa chinensis meristematic cells cultivated with an innovative CROP® (Controlled Release of Optimized Plants) platform, allowed obtaining a stable and standardized phytocomplex rich of medium molecular weight polysaccharides. The polysaccharides profile of the rose extract has been analysed with the size exclusion chromatography (HPLC-ELSD-SEC) both in the in vitro extract and in the dried petals of Rosa chinensis. The polysaccharides content in the extract was ≥20%, higher than in the dried petals. The 65–80% of total polysaccharides have a medium molecular weight (1000 Da), known for their moisturizing and anti-age properties. Reconstructed human epidermis in homeostatic conditions was used to evaluate its moisturizing action and the ability to maintain homeostasis. The Rosa chinensis extract increased the Aquaporin-3 expression and cell membrane localization and demonstrated to regulate hydration either in topical and systemic exposure.